Junya Watanabe, former protégé of Rei Kawakubo and designer of Comme des Garçons, is no stranger to elegant exaggeration, such as the graphic-cubism of his SS 2015 collection or the crazy patchworks of his FW 2014/15 collection. In his most recent work, Watanabe's creations play with dimension, like sophisticated fashion constructions and architecture resembling origami.
The Japanese designer, like his maestro Kawakubo, is known for his "techno couture" approach to fashion and for his experimentations with innovative and synthetic fabrics. In his FW 2015/16 collection this is translated into garments reminiscent of large paper dolls, dressed in honeycomb-structured capes and shapes that are soft yet rigorous.
Tomi Kono, frequent collaborator of brand Comme des Garçons, designed the headpieces for the collection, some similar to helmets, others like large nests composed of fragile bird feathers.
But the aesthetic touch that highlights Watanabe's skilled craftsmanship is provided by fashion photographer Erik Madigan Heck. In the lookbook the pieces are treated as still lifes and not as portraits of a person. Hence the flat, illustrative effect of the models, practically paper cutouts that contrast with the three-dimensionality of the clothes.
Photos © maisondesprit.com